How to use a bait-casting reel!
In the past, baitcasting reels were synonymous with backlashes, but magnetic brakes and clutch adjustment knobs have made the baitcaster easier to use for fishermen of all skill levels. I'm not saying that these reels are as easy to use as a spinning or spincasting reel, but the potential pros greatly outweigh the cons.
Take a look at any fishing magazine, and you'll see that the top fishermen ALL use a baitcasting reel. Why? The free-spinning spool allows for longer casts, and the direct crank-to-spool retrieve makes the "caster" a better, stronger choice for fighting large fish. Okay, they do backlash, and this can ruin a fishing trip in a split second, but there are a couple simple ways of eliminating this problem.
The first thing to do is to match the flow of the spool to the lure (or bait) that you are using. If there isn't enough tension on the spool, the reel's rpm's will be greater than than the speed of the lure as it slows toward the end of the cast. This will cause a backlash. If there is too much tension, the reel will not cast...at all!
Here's how you fix that: put the reel on a rod and and run the line through the eyelets; tie on your lure; wind the lure to within six inches of the rod tip; turn the clutch adjustment knob clockwise (it should be tight and the spool will not spin); release the spool by pushing the casting button; and, finally, turn the clutch adjustment knob counter-clockwise until the lure slowly falls toward the ground. Let's say that if you hold the rod straight out the lure should take 3-4 seconds to hit terra firma. Perfect!
Besides overcasting, there is another way of backlashing these reels. When you see that the lure is about ready to hit the water, stop the spool with your thumb. Otherwise, the lure will stop as it hits the water, but the centrifugal force being placed on the spool will cause it to spin for an instant after the lure (or weight) stops upon impact. That's a recipe for disaster. This can be a problem when night fishing because often you will not be able to see when the lure is going to hit the water. Use your best judgment and stop the spool before it's too late. One good way of doing this is to time your casts when fishing in the daytime. If you can count to three before stopping the spool in daylight, stop the spool after a three count at night. This will eliminate the necessity of sight casting your reel.
None of this was quite so simple in the old days, but baitcasting technology has come a long way. These techniques are good for heave-hoe casts, but before long you'll be comfortable enough to make short backhand or underhand flip casts. A good baitcaster is a superior piece of equipment when compared to spinning and spincasting reels, and once you have mastered the art of casting, you'll never go back to other reel types, especially when fishing for big fish in big water.
There are a lot of baitcasting reels gathering dust in corners because the fisherman is impatient or intimidated, but with a little bit of practice, these are must-have, everyday reels!
Take a look at any fishing magazine, and you'll see that the top fishermen ALL use a baitcasting reel. Why? The free-spinning spool allows for longer casts, and the direct crank-to-spool retrieve makes the "caster" a better, stronger choice for fighting large fish. Okay, they do backlash, and this can ruin a fishing trip in a split second, but there are a couple simple ways of eliminating this problem.
The first thing to do is to match the flow of the spool to the lure (or bait) that you are using. If there isn't enough tension on the spool, the reel's rpm's will be greater than than the speed of the lure as it slows toward the end of the cast. This will cause a backlash. If there is too much tension, the reel will not cast...at all!
Here's how you fix that: put the reel on a rod and and run the line through the eyelets; tie on your lure; wind the lure to within six inches of the rod tip; turn the clutch adjustment knob clockwise (it should be tight and the spool will not spin); release the spool by pushing the casting button; and, finally, turn the clutch adjustment knob counter-clockwise until the lure slowly falls toward the ground. Let's say that if you hold the rod straight out the lure should take 3-4 seconds to hit terra firma. Perfect!
Besides overcasting, there is another way of backlashing these reels. When you see that the lure is about ready to hit the water, stop the spool with your thumb. Otherwise, the lure will stop as it hits the water, but the centrifugal force being placed on the spool will cause it to spin for an instant after the lure (or weight) stops upon impact. That's a recipe for disaster. This can be a problem when night fishing because often you will not be able to see when the lure is going to hit the water. Use your best judgment and stop the spool before it's too late. One good way of doing this is to time your casts when fishing in the daytime. If you can count to three before stopping the spool in daylight, stop the spool after a three count at night. This will eliminate the necessity of sight casting your reel.
None of this was quite so simple in the old days, but baitcasting technology has come a long way. These techniques are good for heave-hoe casts, but before long you'll be comfortable enough to make short backhand or underhand flip casts. A good baitcaster is a superior piece of equipment when compared to spinning and spincasting reels, and once you have mastered the art of casting, you'll never go back to other reel types, especially when fishing for big fish in big water.
There are a lot of baitcasting reels gathering dust in corners because the fisherman is impatient or intimidated, but with a little bit of practice, these are must-have, everyday reels!
Labels: baitcasters, baitcasting reels, Daiwa, Shimano
posted by bloggroup | 4:09 PM
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