How to use a bait-casting reel!

In the past, baitcasting reels were synonymous with backlashes, but magnetic brakes and clutch adjustment knobs have made the baitcaster easier to use for fishermen of all skill levels. I'm not saying that these reels are as easy to use as a spinning or spincasting reel, but the potential pros greatly outweigh the cons.

Take a look at any fishing magazine, and you'll see that the top fishermen ALL use a baitcasting reel. Why? The free-spinning spool allows for longer casts, and the direct crank-to-spool retrieve makes the "caster" a better, stronger choice for fighting large fish. Okay, they do backlash, and this can ruin a fishing trip in a split second, but there are a couple simple ways of eliminating this problem.

The first thing to do is to match the flow of the spool to the lure (or bait) that you are using. If there isn't enough tension on the spool, the reel's rpm's will be greater than than the speed of the lure as it slows toward the end of the cast. This will cause a backlash. If there is too much tension, the reel will not cast...at all!

Here's how you fix that: put the reel on a rod and and run the line through the eyelets; tie on your lure; wind the lure to within six inches of the rod tip; turn the clutch adjustment knob clockwise (it should be tight and the spool will not spin); release the spool by pushing the casting button; and, finally, turn the clutch adjustment knob counter-clockwise until the lure slowly falls toward the ground. Let's say that if you hold the rod straight out the lure should take 3-4 seconds to hit terra firma. Perfect!

Besides overcasting, there is another way of backlashing these reels. When you see that the lure is about ready to hit the water, stop the spool with your thumb. Otherwise, the lure will stop as it hits the water, but the centrifugal force being placed on the spool will cause it to spin for an instant after the lure (or weight) stops upon impact. That's a recipe for disaster. This can be a problem when night fishing because often you will not be able to see when the lure is going to hit the water. Use your best judgment and stop the spool before it's too late. One good way of doing this is to time your casts when fishing in the daytime. If you can count to three before stopping the spool in daylight, stop the spool after a three count at night. This will eliminate the necessity of sight casting your reel.

None of this was quite so simple in the old days, but baitcasting technology has come a long way. These techniques are good for heave-hoe casts, but before long you'll be comfortable enough to make short backhand or underhand flip casts. A good baitcaster is a superior piece of equipment when compared to spinning and spincasting reels, and once you have mastered the art of casting, you'll never go back to other reel types, especially when fishing for big fish in big water.

There are a lot of baitcasting reels gathering dust in corners because the fisherman is impatient or intimidated, but with a little bit of practice, these are must-have, everyday reels!

Baitcasting Reels: The Pros and Cons

Okay, here’s the scenario. You’re at a large outdoors retailer with your fourteen year-old son, and he points at a $150 baitcaster and asks, “Dad, can I have that for Christmas?” This could evolve into your worst fishing nightmare. Imagine a beginner’s fist time out with a spinning reel and multiply it by ten. Casting reels are notorious for bird nesting; this occurs any time the line comes off of the spool faster than the lure or bait is going through the air. For the novice, this can be every other cast!

There are ways of keeping this problem in check. After putting line on the reel, place it on a rod and run the line through the eyes. Then tie a weight (1/2 oz. sinker for example) on the end of the line and let it drop. Optimally, the weight should slowly drop to the ground. If it hangs there, it won’t cast. If it freefalls, watch out for the bird’s nests! This adjustment can be made with the drag knob. Here’s another small piece of advice. STOP the lure or bait before it hits the water. That’s done by putting your thumb on the roller. Many line problems occur with overcastting, but more often than not, it’s the sudden stop that makes the mess.

It may sound like I dislike baitcasters, but this is not true. They are everyday equipment for professional fishermen, and there has to be a reason. What other type of reel will hold 140 yards of 12 lb. test and cast this heavy line half the length of a football field? None. This is because of a “free flowing” spool. On spinning and spin casting reels, the line flows off in a more awkward, sideways angle. Many baitcasters have high speed gears and have a 7:1 retrieval ratio, and the crank has a more direct link to the spool than spinning or spin casting reels. This results in optimum power for fighting big fish.

Baitcasting reels come in a wide variety of prices and quality. On the low end, there is the Cabela’s All Pro Casting Reel for $29.99, and on the high end the Shimano Calcutta runs $499.99. Reels are like anything else: you get what you pay for, and fortunately there are happy mediums. The Abu Garcia Revo SX-L runs approximately $129 and has many of the features of higher priced reels. A final consideration is reel type. There are two styles of baitcasting reels, round and low profile. The round style allows the fisherman to “palm” the reel, which is a popular technique, and the low profile is sleeker, shaped almost like an “inverted teardrop.”

Like any other piece of fishing equipment, there is a baitcaster for all levels of fishermen, and might I suggest that you give the reel many tries before depositing it in the dumpster in a fit of rage.

Quick Facts about Baitcasting Reels:
-They are not recommended for novice fisherman
-Price range is between $30-$500
-Fisherman who use bait and are trying for large fish typically opt for baitcasting reels